Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green, 19 Kilburn Lane, Kensal Green, London, W10 4 AE
‘One bowl, two spoons’ may just be the biggest mistake I make this year. Two reasons for this. Let me explain.
The first is that my lady has a sister and three brothers. So whilst I may think I know my way round the plate, she’s trained and positively owns it. It was pudding time and immediately I was scolded for ‘mixing’ the crumble with the custard. Mon fucking Dieu!
I was afforded the luxury of no more than three mouthfuls. ‘another bite and you won’t get a massage later’ etc. etc. This was some machiavellian dining.
All of this wouldn’t have mattered except this was the best pudding I’ve eaten out for years. Puddings are nearly always boring in restaurants, the chef’s after thought. A lazy scratch on the back after sex. They’re better at home, maybe even at school.
Rhubarb Crumble is the Queen of English Puddings. And this was Queen Victoria (leave your sponge at home). This beauty had perfectly tart but still sweet pink rhubarb. Its crumble light but indulgent and crunchy. All epic and best mixed with the custard. Paradise by Way of Kensal Green is responsible. They do other things too, all tasty. But, as they say, it’s the rhubarb that lingers.*
I urge you to go there now and have a bowl for yourself and definitely one for your partner.
* they don’t say this



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